The hook link is either 25 lb stealth skin or the new Gardner camfusion in dark green. I also always add a loop on the swivel end to give the rig more movement.
I like to fish this in conjunction with Atomic dung or gravel coated lead.
My preference is a running lead as can be seen in the photograph running directly on to leadcore. Not only is this very fish friendly and safe but I like slack lines and bobbins on the floor which coupled with the running leads promotes great hooking whilst allowing your lines and end tackle to be lying flat on the lake bottom.
Together with this rig I use barrel shaped hookbaits wrapped in paste which I feel has given me an edge on pressured waters. As the paste dissolves coupled with the barrel baits you are left with a totally different shaped bait but also extemely high in attraction.
Give it a try!
Be lucky
Rick Golder.
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Hook Link
For a long time now I’ve used Stealth Skin in 25lb. This is available in green and a browny gold colour. It is extremely strong and the coating peels back easily. You don’t need to muck about steaming knots either, just moisten the knot with saliva before pulling tight. I prefer a hook length of around 8 inches long, with the last two inches of skin near the hook peeled back. This allows free movement of the last couple of inches to maximise hooking potential. Stealth Skin comes in various formats these days; there is a black colour, a camo version and even a multi-coloured version called Khameleon.
Swivels
These have to be strong and flexible. I use Atomics ring swivel in size 8 (compatible with most common lead-clip systems) and also Solars new ball bearing swivel. I’m not a fan of hook-link clips etc, preferring to hook the PVA bag onto the hook rather than on the hook-link itself.
Lead-Clips
I generally use either Nash or Korda. With the Korda version, I cut down the leg so that the lead is easily released. Nash version is extremely safe, with a small pin that pushes through the clip into the swivel. Atomic are working on a version, due for release soon, so watch out for it!! With big leads I want them to drop off the minute the hook is in, a big lead swinging about on the hook link playing a fish is no good for anyone.
Leaders
In my humble opinion, it is crucial the area around the hook-bait sits flat on the bottom. I use either a nylon ready-made leader, Korda do a good ‘Safe Zone’ version or lead-core. Atomic and ESP both produce good, ready to go, versions.
Flying Back Leads
I use these all the time, on every rig. We all know the importance of ensuring the area around your hook-bait is pinned down and as concealed as possible. Atomics new flying back lead is an excellent product, with significant advantages over most others on the market at the moment. I use rods with large tip eyes, as many of my colleagues and friends do too, and it is very frustrating that some flying back leads are able to go through the tip eye! Atomics version is large enough not to go through your tip ring, without the need for added bits of plastic or large beads. It has a built-in friction free sleeve, which runs through the central hole where the line goes, allowing frictionless movement up and down the line. The front side has an inverted surface that will catch the air on cast, allowing the back lead to fly smoothly back up the line.
Hair Length
Very important, too tighter hair and your hook will not turn properly. My ideal length is 5 - 10mm clearance from bend of hook to top of first boilie, this allows sufficient room for turn.
So, there you have it, my ‘Favourite Rig’. I’ve caught loads of Carp using this rig and will continue to do so until something better comes along or I stumble across a way to make my current favourite better. You need to be confident in your gear, bait and rig!
Tight Lines!!
Chris ‘Essex Man’ Woodrow
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